I decided on this can, despite the numerous poor reviews, because I thought the design of the nozzle was just too good to pass up, and I'm happy to report my satisfaction, as well as a couple of tips for use; having bought the dreaded 5-gallon model plagued with leaking issues at the cap (according to other reviews), I was relieved to discover that mine came with a gasket, and, despite some rigorous tests, refused to leak. I'd almost give this 5 stars, but there are a couple of things to watch out for, so it's not perfect out of the box.The nozzle works as conveniently as demonstrated in the product video, though you may wish to consider your can size carefully if you share my T-rex upper body build. Also, save your wrist; don't forget that there's a handle on the back end of the can.The auto-stop feature is a lifesaver, especially for devices with narrow fill openings that are inevitably impossible to peer into to see the fill level. If you can't jam the nozzle far enough down whatever container you're filling due to clearance, any snug, airtight hose extension (skip the one sold by the company and cut a custom length of tubing at a hardware store) will maintain the auto-stop function; simply hold down the button, and the flow will stop once the gas level reaches the end of the hose (and the hose fills up).Over 6 years later, I can also confirm that this can passes the test of time sitting outdoors (with a roof over it). Both the cap and the nozzle mechanism work just fine, and while the can body has rounded out somewhat due to long-term internal pressurization, the base remains flat and steady, and the material itself is showing no signs of giving out.Finally, a few tips for buyers:1. Whatever size you choose, definitely check the bottom of the cap for a gasket when you receive your can. (Mine is now dark brown, but it may have been black 6 years ago.) If it doesn't have one, don't settle―it WILL leak at some point. Either get a replacement, your money back from Amazon, (yes, that qualifies as defective, it's missing parts and leaks) or go to a hardware store and get your own if you want to save the time and trouble. If you go the DIY route, though, be careful; some gasket materials may get eaten up by gasoline over time.2. When screwing the cap on, be sure the yellow body is seated against the threaded black ring correctly. The one time mine leaked was when relatives used it in my absence, and haphazardly replaced the cap. The yellow body can be out of position even if the black part is not cross-threaded. The easy way to prevent this is to pull directly up on the yellow part while screwing the black ring down. The ratchet strip on the black ring should engage more than halfway if the cap is correctly seated.3. Don't overfill. If it's rated for 5 gallons, it'll hold that much. These cans are designed with airspace at the top to accommodate outgassing up to a certain internal pressure, so if you fill it too far you'll literally blow a gasket.4. If you store this can outside while significantly less than full, you run the risk of it collapsing due to pressure drops driven by seasonal temperature changes. Avoid storing this can for long periods while only partially full. If you wish to leave it empty, loosen the cap somewhat to allow air flow.P.S. I have seen reports that the auto-shutoff feature may not work unless the green button is depressed completely (i.e. maximum flow). I have not tested this myself, as I've always pushed it in all the way.20190613 UPDATE: I saw a few of these cans on the shelf of a local hardware store, and upon trying the lids out of curiosity, I discovered that manufacturing tolerances are lax enough that, if you're unlucky with the combination of can and lid you get, they won't want to seat together correctly. (I was able to resolve the incompatibility by swapping lids around.) Out of the box, you can test for this by following my advice above, and additionally checking that both the black thread ring and yellow lid body are level with the red shoulder of the can opening below the threads.I also recommend testing your can's sealing ability before adding any fuel, since gasoline renders it un-mailable and makes getting a refund/replacement more annoying:1. Add at least a cup of fresh, refrigerated, carbonated beverage of your choice to the can. (Baking soda and vinegar or water and dry ice will also work if you can keep them separate until step 3.)2. Replace can lid (following advice above).3. Invert the can so that the beverage inside covers all the sealing surfaces around and inside the lid.4. Allow the beverage to reach room temperature.5. Shake the can while upside down.6. While keeping the can upside down, check for beverage leaks, bubbling, and hissing around the sealing surfaces of the lid. If any are found, fail.If the can fails, either try re-seating the lid and re-testing, or get the can replaced. If it passes the test, rinse out the can and lid, and dry completely before use.20231122 UPDATE: My original can (as shown in the pictures) has now clocked over 11 years, and continues to serve me well. It appears that the cans sold today have undergone some redesigns (e.g. the green button is no longer cylindrical like mine), and while what I wrote above still applies, I now have some additional notes:- There appear to be some quality control issues with seams on later iterations of the can. If you follow my recommended testing procedure above, make sure that your can is actually holding pressure. It should audibly release a puff of gas if you right the can and press the green button after successfully completing step 6.- Further experimentation (with other cans) has revealed that the nozzle's auto-stop ability can be defective independently of the can's ability to hold pressure. Using my procedure, you can also test the auto-stop function at the end, while you're rinsing the can out. If your can can hold pressure, yet you still cannot reproduce the flow stoppage shown by "No Spill Jill" in the product videos, you have a defective nozzle, which, again, is grounds for a replacement.- Something, something, "government", "spark arrestor": it looks like all newer cans are saddled with an aggravating white plastic basket in the neck. Luckily, there is a straightforward way to modify the basket for easy removal:You will need a bright flashlight, a hammer, and a long (over 5㎝), narrow (no more than about 1㎝), thin (less than 3㎜), flat, and preferably somewhat sharp metal object, such as a cheap pair of tweezers, a small chisel, a tiny flat-head screwdriver, or a (skinny) box cutter blade.Shine your flashlight through the wall of the (hopefully dry and empty) can from the outside, and look at the basket from the inside to locate the shadows of the two locking tabs holding the basket in place.Once you have found the tabs, work your metal object down from the top between the basket and the neck of the can until you feel it jam against the lower end of a tab, where it joins with the basket; expect significant resistance at the start, since you must force your metal implement past an internal lip that keeps the basket from dropping into the can.With your metal object resting against the tab, use your hammer to tap directly down on it to shear the tab off. (You'll probably hear the tab drop to the bottom of the can if you succeed.) Depending on how narrow your implement is, you may have to reposition and repeat a few times, and, of course, you will have to do both tabs.After both tabs are dealt with, the basket should pull out with relative ease; a jar opener to grip both inner mesh walls, or a stiff wire/hook hooked through the uppermost mesh holes should suffice to pull it loose.